Christian Dior famously said “you can never take too much care over the choice of your shoes.” Who are we to disagree? Shoes are one of the first things others (especially women) notice about a man. Since first impressions tend to more heavily influence someone’s overall opinion of you than any following interactions, you should ensure that your shoes help you take advantage of this natural human tendency. We’re going to outline the five types of shoes every man needs in his wardrobe.
Before we get started, it’s important to note that you should not skimp on shoe quality. Low quality shoes fall apart faster, typically don’t look as good (or their looks wear off more quickly), and hurt your feet. They oftentimes will cost you more in the long run, as you’ll have to replace them every year or two, rather than buying a high-quality option that lasts for five to ten or even more years.
In terms of design, you should lean in the more classic or clean direction, at least with your foundational five types mentioned here. It’s nice for someone to notice your shoes for their quality and appearance, but not necessarily for a flashy, loud, or overly trendy design.
Below are the five basic types of shoes every man needs in his arsenal.
- Black oxfords
- Brown oxfords
- Boots
- Loafers
- Plain white sneakers
Black Oxfords
What is an Oxford shoe? By strict definition, it is a more formal style shoe featuring a closed lacing system, which results in a tighter, sleeker profile as seen in the photo above.
Black Oxfords are the foundation of any wardrobe and are typically reserved for more formal and serious occasions. You should always have a pair on hand for formal or semi-formal social gatherings (black shoes look great at night) and funerals. These can also come in handy for interviews or daily wear for traditional white-collar occupations (legal, finance, etc). When you need them, it’s usually serious, so it’s good to always have a pair.
These shoes match very well with charcoal or grey suits and slacks, accompanied by a white or light blue shirt for a traditional, clean look. They also are the only match for black suits, which should be reserved for formal attire or funerals (charcoal is usually a better option for most circumstances, as an all black suit can be a little somber).
If you only have one pair of black Oxfords in your wardrobe (and for most men this should suffice), make sure it is a classic pair with a round or chiseled last (please, please never wear square-toed dress shoes). They should be constructed with high-quality full-grain leather and have little or no detail beyond a captoe. Ideally you can afford a goodyear or blake welded construction, which is usually a sign of good quality and will allow you to re-sole the shoe once the soles wear out.
Below are a few examples of a black oxford. Look for Brands like Meermin (far left), Allen Edmonds (top middle), Beckett Simonon (top right) and Paul Evans (bottom right).
Brown Oxfords
Very similar to the black Oxfords, the brown Oxfords are less formal and will match a wider variety of colors and situations. You can wear these for occasions like weddings, work (for traditional white collar jobs), semi-formal events, and even dressing up on a nice date or night out.
Brown Oxfords can be worn with different shades of tan, navy, grey, and brown trousers and suits. Good rule of thumb – the darker the shade of the shoe and the smoother the material, the more formal the overall look will need to be. You should also opt for a darker brown to match a darker suit, as a light brown shoe with a navy suit, for instance, will draw too much attention to your shoes and detract from your overall look.
The picture above is a great example of brown Oxfords which lean more formal. You can wear shoes like these with suits and trousers.
If you can only go with one pair, I would recommend something similar to the picture above, or maybe slightly less formal. Definitely stick to the smooth leather and rounded or chiseled toe shape.
Express your personality
If you want to go with multiple pairs of this style, you can let your personality shine a bit. Dark brown suede would be a good second pair – it’s a killer option that can match dark-wash jeans all the way up to dress slacks/suits with some texture (linen or a heavier wool). Wing-tips or long-wings are a good casual medium with visual interest that can fit a variety of looks and situations.
Below are a few options of various types.
- To Boot NY Double Monk Strap – $199 (top left)
- Beckett Simonon Vasco Oxfords – $209 (bottom left)
- Meermin Congac Museum Calf – $230 (top right)
- Charles Tyrwhitt Suede Oxford Brogues – $249 (bottom right)
- Paul Evans Cagney II Stitched Cap-Toe Oxford (pictured at top of section) – $425
Boots
Now we’re getting into more casual territory. With boots, it’s important to let your overall style and personality shine.
Are you more of an outdoorsy person? You can get something more rugged that still matches with dark jeans or casual chinos. Are you someone who likes to dress up often? Maybe some smooth leather or suede chukkas with a leather sole will work well. Do you like to wear jeans/t-shirts and dress casually more often than not? You can’t beat a pair of Clark’s Desert boots with beeswax leather (shown above).
You should have at least one pair of boots for more casual wear and/or cooler weather. Owning a few different pairs will allow you to easily add variation to numerous different looks. A polo with chinos and some clean chukka boots is a great Spring/Summer look. Or you could pair some rugged boots with dark wash jeans and a flannel shirt for Fall/Winter.
Check out the options below for an easy place to start.
- Clarks Desert Boots Beeswax – $150 (also pictured at top of section)
- Thursday Boot Co. Scout Boots – $150
- Beckett Simonon Preston Chelsea Boots – $239
- AE Higgins Mill Boot – $425
Loafers
Loafers give you so many options to vary your looks in any situation, and are a great versatile option for warmer weather. You can go fairly casual with a pair of cotton chinos and an oxford collar button down (OCBD) or a smooth poplin dress shirt, get dressy like the gentleman in the picture above with a suit, or even as casual as pairing some boat shoes with nicer shorts and a polo shirt (if that’s your style).
Loafers are also a great option for business casual workplaces due to their comfort and ability to match well with nicer slacks and button-down shirts.
Depending on your personal style and your usual level of dressiness, you can vary the type of loafer in your arsenal. For some, a smooth upper with no details and a hard leather sole will work for more formal/professional situations or for sleeker looks. Others might find a hardier leather penny loafer to suit more casual situations. If your style leans very casual and classic preppy, a good pair of boat shoes could be very useful.
Below are a few good quality options at various price points.
- J. Crew Camden Loafers – $148 (top left)
- Jack Erwin Decker Driving Loafer – $168 (bottom left)
- Meermin Dark Brown Alpine Calf – $195 (top right)
- Rancourt & Co. Pinch Penny Loafers – $265 (bottom right)
Plain white sneakers
Now to the most casual pair of the five, the classic plain white sneaker.
These are the most versatile casual shoes you can own and can dress down many looks without creating too much of a mismatch. You can pair these with casual chinos and a t-shirt or use them to dress down some slacks and a button down. Obviously they go very well with dark wash jeans and a t-shirt/sweatshirt, or shorts and a short sleeve button-down.
Get creative with other sneakers if that’s your style. But you should always have the plain white sneaker in your closet when you’re not sure if something will match, or when you want to dress down a dressier combo.
Here are some great options at a few different price points. Another bonus – you can get a very solid pair for a reasonable price.
- Diadora Melody Leather – $51
- Superga Cotu Classic – $65
- Adidas Stan Smith – $68
- Nike Killshot 2 – $92
We outlined our favorite options above for the five shoes every man needs, but you should do your own research and find whatever fits your personality, style, and daily life the best. If you work from home and rarely dress up, you might be able to get away with only one color of oxford, for instance. Or maybe you live somewhere very warm and don’t need boots.
Get your shoes right, and the rest of your wardrobe will more easily fall into place. These five shoes will help set your foundation.
