Lapels are one of the defining features of men’s tailored clothing. They frame the chest, give structure to the garment, and carry centuries of tradition. But where did lapels come from, and why have they remained central to menswear for more than 200 years?
We all known that some fashion pieces have lapels. Those are blazers, jackets, coats and some types of shirts, but have you ever wondered exactly what purpose they serve?
The lapel is certainly a convenient place for some symbol and therefore there is a theory that it was invented exactly for that, a place for a medal of sorts. However, the truth is somewhat different. Lapels are a consequence of the development of fashion in the 19th century, and before had quite practical purpose.
History
Lapels first occurred in the 17th century for practical reasons. During winter, coats were designed with tall collars that could be buttoned across the chest for warmth. When the weather improved, wearers would unbutton the coat and fold the flaps downward, creating the earliest version of lapels.
The origins of lapels are most closely associated with military uniforms. Soldiers in the 1600s and 1700s wore coats with overlapping fronts to protect against wind and cold. When unbuttoned, the folded layers created a V-shape, visually similar to the lapels we see today. This design provided flexibility: warmth when closed, ventilation when open.
By the early 19th century, men’s fashion began to embrace this feature as a stylistic element. The English dandy Beau Brummell (1778–1840), often credited with shaping modern menswear, encouraged cleaner, more minimalist tailoring that highlighted structure and proportion. His influence on Savile Row tailors in London transformed lapels from purely practical folds into intentional, stylish details.
So when it was cold, the collar was buttoned up in order to protect the neck and when it was hot or when one could go indoors (when the room temperature was probably 15 degrees Celsius), the collar was unbuttoned. But right here “fingers interfered” with fashion. It looked inelegant for the lapel to hang when unbuttoned and they twitched it in half and buttoned it somewhere on the shoulder. Then appeared a problem with symmetry, because it twitched a part of the other side of the coat.
The rest is history of the path to fashion.Throughout the 19th century, tailors experimented with size, width, and roll, producing variations that reflected changing tastes. Over time, the lapel’s functional purpose disappeared, replaced by scarves, shawls, and turtlenecks for warmth. Yet the lapel remained, not as a necessity but as a defining feature of refined clothing.
Types of Lapels
Today, there are three main lapel styles, each with its own heritage and purpose:
Notch Lapel
The most common style, identified by the small “notch” where the collar meets the lapel. Seen on business suits and blazers, the notch lapel gained popularity in the 19th century and remains versatile for both professional and casual settings.
Peak Lapel
Distinguished by its sharp, upward-pointing edges. Peak lapels convey boldness and formality. They were widely used in double-breasted jackets in the early 20th century and are still a hallmark of tuxedos and high-end tailoring.
Shawl Lapel
Characterized by a smooth, curved edge without a notch or peak. The shawl lapel is most associated with evening wear, particularly dinner jackets. Its origin lies in the 1860s smoking jacket, a garment designed for gentlemen to wear at home, which eventually evolved into formalwear.
Including these distinctions helps explain why lapels are not just decorative but functional signifiers of formality, occasion, and tradition.
Cultural and Fashion Significance
Lapels today are no longer about fastening a coat shut—they are about proportion, elegance, and identity. The width and style of lapels often mirror broader cultural trends. For instance, the 1960s favored slimmer lapels to match the minimalist tailoring of the era, while the 1980s embraced wider peak lapels that reflected power dressing. Designers such as Giorgio Armani and Tom Ford have each reinterpreted lapels to suit their aesthetic, proving their ongoing relevance.
Runways still feature lapels prominently, not as archaic relics but as essential details that complete the silhouette of a jacket or coat. Whether worn in a boardroom, on a red carpet, or casually with jeans, lapels remain a timeless link between fashion’s past and present.
Conclusion
From their military beginnings in the 17th century to their refinement in the tailoring houses of the 19th, lapels have journeyed from function to fashion. They are no longer practical necessities but symbolic markers of taste and tradition. Whether notch, peak, or shawl, lapels continue to define men’s blazers and coats, proving that some details endure not because they must, but because they elevate style to an art form.
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