There’s no one right answer to this question. When thinking of how should chinos fit, it depends on quite a few factors, such as your personal style, when you wear chinos, and your build.
Chinos should bring a relaxed yet put together vibe to your outfit. They are sharp but not too stuffy, and appropriate for the widest variety of style scenarios. You can pair them with anything from t-shirts, polos, sweaters, button downs, to sport coats, and they offer a wide variety of colors to add a pop of boldness to an otherwise boring outfit.
Chinos work well with all kinds of footwear too. From sneakers and loafers to boots and even some more relaxed dress shoe styles, you can create a wide variety of looks in varying levels of dressiness by using your chinos as a focal point, and adjusting the other pieces in your outfit around them.
Due to the versatility and style benefits, this is a garment that you can throw on without giving too much thought, giving your look a sense of effortlessness.
And this sense of ease plays into how should chinos fit.
How they should NOT fit
While certain fashion trends come and go, you should avoid conforming your chino fit to styles that are either skin tight or very baggy.
Skin tight chinos, even those offering a stretchy fabric, don’t look comfortable. This detracts from the sense of ease and relaxed sharpness this garment should bring to your attire.
On the other end of the spectrum, overly baggy styles will create a sloppy look. You want your clothes to enhance your physical features, and shapeless pants that pool around your ankles will not accentuate anything. Regardless of whether you are in great shape or not.
Dial in the length
The ease and versatility of chinos should keep you away from the extreme ends of the fit spectrum. But where should you land in the middle?
First of all, you should make sure your chinos fit well and give your legs some shape.
Make sure they are not too long or short. Since chinos are a more casual garment, you don’t need to hit an exact zero or single break like you would with slacks or suit pants. But you do need to keep fabric from pooling around your ankles, as this will ruin the sharpness of the look. Any decent tailor can hem your pants to the right length.
For more casual chino styles, I’ve found that rolling up the bottom for the right length is a great way to relax the look a bit more while dialing in the length. It adds a certain sense of effortlessness to the look.
Pants that are too short will look out of place too. “Highwaters” will give off the appearance of a little kid who has outgrown his pants. It’s difficult to add more length to pants, so make sure you err on the side of buying those that are at least long enough, and take them to a tailor to dial in the exact length.
Other than the consideration of length, how relaxed or slim yours should fit will depend on a few other factors we explore below.
Personal style
As we’ve mentioned a few times, the biggest appeal of chinos is their ability to blend a relaxed vibe with a sharp appearance. Your personal style will determine wear you should land on the fit spectrum.
- Traditional or preppy – Slightly more relaxed, maybe even with a pleat or two. For these styles, a crease in the front and a slight taper from the hips to the leg opening can keep the vibe a little more relaxed while giving your legs some shape.
- Modern but conservative – Fitted chinos look best with more modern yet conservative looks, a style which suits most well-dressed gentleman. Pants that skim the legs but are not too constricting, with a slight taper below the knee, will give your legs a masculine shape, look sharp, and work well with most casual and smart casual looks. This fit looks mature and put together, but not too stuffy.
- Trendy – The baggy look from the 90s is back! If you are younger or your style leans a little trendier, then maybe some baggier chinos will work with your attire. Remember, you still need to dial in the length so the look doesn’t get too sloppy.
Body shape
Even if you have muscular legs and want to show them off, very tight chinos will make it seem like you are trying to wear gym clothes or rely too much on your physique for your style. Try an athletic cut that offers room in the hips and thighs but tapers below the knee. This allows you to show off your hard work in a more subtle way, while still keeping the relaxed chinos vibe.
And if you have skinny legs and want to wear very slim chinos, it will only make your legs look skinnier and throw off the balance of your outfit. Go for a standard or slim-straight fit that adds a little weight to your frame but doesn’t get too baggy (which will drown out your legs).
Oftentimes bigger guys think baggier clothes will hide the extra weight. In fact, it does the opposite. Overly baggy clothes will make you appear larger, as well as drape and move in ways that are unflattering. Stick to clothes, including chinos, that skim but don’t restrict your movement, which will give you a sleeker appearance.
Dark colors, small patterns, and more monochromatic outfits also work well for bigger guys to keep a slimmer profile.
When are you wearing chinos?
The final consideration. If your day to day attire consists of business casual, slacks (different from chinos), or dressier clothes, then you probably want your chinos to relax your overall attire, while still keeping the sharp vibe of your work style.
If mostly wear jeans and t-shirts and keep your chinos for dressier occasions, then a dressier, more fitted style will work for when you pull out this garment.
For those who wear chinos most days, then you probably will need a few different fits depending on the scenario. More relaxed chinos for running errands or grabbing coffee/lunch/drinks. And sharper, more fitted chinos for work, smart casual gatherings, dates, pairing with a polo and a blazer, etc…
