Whether for casual, business casual, or dressy winter looks, the humble pea coat can fill the need for almost all of your winter outerwear situations. The pea coat combines supreme functionality with masculine aesthetics, which explains its lasting appeal. We’ll review different options and why the pea coat for men provides the most value from one outerwear piece.
History and heritage
The pea coat officially dates back to the 1700’s (maybe earlier) and was developed as a purely functional garment for seafaring men traveling through cold, wet conditions. The following features were designed to keep sailors warm and dry but also mobile during the harshest weather:
- Thick wool fabric, which insulates, keeps the wind out, and retains heat when wet
- Large high collar, which can be flipped up and fastened across the neck for additional warmth
- Double-breasted closure with large strong buttons, for extra insulation and security when working on a ship
- Hip-length cut, designed to keep sailors warm and dry but also mobile during the harshest weather
- Slit pockets at the center of the coat, perfect for quickly warming cold hands
Due to this functionality, the British and American navies adopted the pea coat as part of their official military uniforms. Like most military garments, this jacket style evokes a powerful, masculine silhouette. The lines of the lapels and structure of the jacket accentuate the upper body’s v shape.
Versatility and styling
The history and functionality mixed with its classic masculine structure makes the pea coat the perfect versatile outerwear piece. If you only had one piece of heavy outerwear, the pea coat would be the ideal option.
Pea coats can look just as good with dark denim and sneakers as they do over a well-tailored suit. Check out some great examples below on how you can style this jacket.
As you can see above, from casual to business casual to formal, from rugged to refined, the pea coat works well with so many different looks. Regardless of your personal style, there’s probably a way to make this garment a foundational piece of your cold weather wardrobe.
Style notes
Due to the double breasted design, you may want to go with a longer style. Otherwise they can present a very “chopped” look depending on your frame and the jacket style. This will make your overall frame appear shorter – something most men will want to avoid.
As far as color, if you only have one pea coat you should go with a traditional charcoal, navy, or medium gray. Camel can look great too, but it’s not quite as versatile. The same principle applies to patterned coats. A non-traditional color/pattern can add a unique flair to your cold weather looks, but you should save it for a second or third winter jacket.
Like any other piece, it’s also important fit this jacket properly. Like fitting a sport coat, make sure you get the fit right at the shoulder. An outerwear piece like this will have to fit a little bigger than a suit or sport coat, since you’ll need room to layer underneath. It’s best to try it on with your thickest sweater and make sure it’s comfortable but not too baggy (the shoulder seam shouldn’t extended very far, if at all, over the end of your shoulder with layers underneath).
Options for your budget
A good quality pea coat can last many years. These high quality coats come at a cost. You should buy the best you can for your budget, and we’ll go through some pea coat for men options to fit most budgets.
Amazon Essentials (pictured left, above) – $88 – No personal experience with this one, but it does have 4.5 out of 5 stars after over 1,000 reviews. Great price and pictures look decent. If you’re on a tight budget and need a winter coat, this would probably work fine. Could also be a good option if you live somewhere warm and only need a heavier coat a few times a year. It’s a little on the short side, so watch out for that.
L.L. Bean (pictured right, above) – $289 – Very solid brand and great looking option. 100% wool with a thinsulate lining, so it should keep you warm and dry. Decently slim and good length. L.L. Bean is based in Maine, so they know about designing a solid garment for cold weather.
Schott NYC (pictured left, above) – $360 – A absolute classic, and our top recommendation from this list. Thick, substantial fabric (80/20 blend… for $200 more you can get their 100% wool option). 8 buttons. Everything you imagine a pea coat should be. You can dress this one up or down, it’s right in the middle of dressiness spectrum.
Spier and Mackay (pictured right, above – $478 – This Canadian menswear brand has really blown up in the last few years, as it provides good quality tailored attire for reasonable prices. Their pea coat does come in at a steep price point, however. But man does it look good. It has beefy, substantial lines and is made with a 100% donegal wool weave. It also has an inverted box pleat at the back, which is a nice touch. A good option to match business casual or dressier attire, and they have some interesting color options.
Billy Reid Bond Coat (above) – $698 – Worn by 007 himself, this pea coat blew up a few years back after the movie SkyFall. And it’s not hard to see why. A slimmer, more luxurious version of the classic, this piece is truly a modern showcase for the pea coat. This style will match better with more tailored attire or dressier looks. However, you could pull off some dark denim, a textured sweater, and some leather Chelsea boots for a more casual take.
Also be sure to check your local Army/Navy surplus store. They may carry pea coats, and those tend to be a great budget option.
Regardless of your choice, the pea coat for men gives you so much versatility and looks great. What more do you need?